neděle 1. listopadu 2015

Amazonas

We arrived to Iquitos airport quite 10km from the city. That was Tuesday morning. There were hordes of taxis and mototaxis fighting for us. Poor people. We took mototaxi ride for 5 sol (1,5 usd, 40 czk). In general transportation is very cheap here, but streets incredibly busy. I saw guy paying couple of soles for scooter rental. We jumped into hostel and met one local guy named Jorge. He was very calm and was direct contact to the jungle. He spoke quite English. We liked him both. We checked one more agency, but liked the local guy more, rather than fancy shared touristic tour. The price with the guy was 400 sol (120 usd, 3000 czk) for 3 days Amazonas jungle trip. We went around the city later that day and found out everything quite expensive mainly because most of the things are imported. Iquitos is the biggest city in the world not accessible by cars. But we still found also some local places with very cheap food. The difference is quite serious from main promenade's 30 sol lunch to market's 3 sol launch. The promenade was quite busy in the evening with musicians, street theater and some ridiculous gambling like guinea pig running to a random hole while people take bets on the holes.



Next morning we met our guide 7am with his wife and took a ride to Nauta. You could see a lot of tropical nature along the way similar to Thailand for example. We were shortly in Nauta and our guide collected the food and we went to check the market and take breakfast. It was probably the most authentic market so far. No other gringo (white tourist) there. Breakfast was variation of food and some special fruits for couple of soles again. We took a 2 hours boat ride to Jorge place within one small community on the river. His place was basic without electricity and bath room, but still okaish for what we expected. Only his father lives there. Jorge takes tourists there from time to time. We went for fishing in the afternoon. The goal was clear - catch the dinner. We cought couple of piranhas. We went to observer river join later during the sunset to se dolphins catching the fishes. Fish for dinner as every day and after that we went for night fishing again around 9pm during the full moon. The fishes sleeps at the coast close to surface. We took headlights, paddles and spears. It was quite successful hunt and I never thought it would be so easy. We cought couple of fishes of breakfast and also a frog :-)








The Jorge was partially illiterate. He never attended school but learnt some letters from people. He had mobile phone but he had hard time to use it. He wasn't even sure how to plug it into outlet. His father was even more extreme. He never left jungle. If you looked into his eyes, you couldn't see anything. They were covered with white cloud - so scary. When I ask how he goes to doctor Jorge answered that he is a doctor - he is a local shaman. That was interesting fact as I wanted to proceed the Ayahuasca shaman ceremony. We talked and made a deal that next day when we plan to stay in jungle, Jorge's father will join us and do ceremony. In the morning we packed our stuff and left for jungle after breakfast. The plan was clear, stay whole day and night inside jungle. We took the boat, found the place and set the base camp. Sleeping and cooking was very basic. As we were supposed to proceed with ceremony in the evening we had to take a diet. Only rice and fresh vegetables and fruits. Afternoon we went for a trip to jungle. It's hard to spot any wild life in jungle. But we saw few monkeys and birds, lizard, giant dragonfly - at least 20cm wing span. And many different kinds and colors of butterflies. I also saw strange glowing purple leafs on one of the trees. Jorge found some larva in some nuts and ate few together with Ivo. I didn't joined them :-) It took some time before we found the way back as we lost the track. Jorge was super oriented and said that he can do couple weeks tour and he won't be lost in a jungle. We made our way with a machete. Some parts were quite tricky and at one point a stepped into little swamp so deep that I got some mud into my rubber boot. It was super hot and sweaty weather. It felt and even smelled like in a greenhouse.












Back in the camp, Jorge said bye to us to went for a father so we were left alone. We sprayed ourselves with army load of DEET so that it was dropping even from my balls. The sun was leaving us and jungle was getting louder and Jorge nowhere. We were still trying to keep calm and he came with father just after sunset. It was time for night jungle trip. We won't go far so the rubber boots are not necessary, Jorge said. Going through the nature explaining all the poison friends while walking in sandals wasn't the greatest feelings. Poisoned scorpions (poison can kill) and ants (20 hours to die). Extra large or extra strange insects. I felt like doing my biggest mistake in my life. Not to say that we're going to spend night in jungle along the Indian with machete and shaman with white eyes and they gonna serve us with their special tea and we all gonna vomit afterwards to release the demons. Starting in just couple of moments.





It's a next day, but I still feel like its continuous day. I didn't slept much. I still feel dizzy but my stomach is at least ok. I took a short early morning swim in river and I had time to thing about last couple of hours. Honestly I had interesting experience, but I'm pretty sure I don't wanna repeat it. In short, we had two most terrible, definitely organic, shots coupled with couple of shaman joints. Looked like everything was in the hands of this jungle expert who never saw the city. He was doing ceremony around it consisting of strange words, songs and smoking on each of us to our face, hearth or head. Again and again until the release was supposed to come. But before that were stoned states. I felt super slow and super relaxed nearly flying. Ivo started to release shortly after the second shot and I knew that it gonna happen to me too. My body was ringing me some alarms. I had stomach problem and also felt the high blood pressure and hotness. But I didn't released. I lain down later as I was feeling sleepy. That was another state where I felt like dreams coming true. I felt like in a dream but I could manage it's script. The scenery was changing every second and it was incredibly fast paced. Most of the scenes were very abstract and incredibly creative. The shaman was still siting next to me and blowing his smoke. He even offered me 3rd shot but I rejected. He was waiting for my release, but I was enjoying my dreams. This took me couple of hours before my body said stop, we gotta clean you. He gave me some more non-oral medicine afterwards to further clean me and I felt little refreshed after all this and relaxed for two more hours before sunrise. The shaman was careful and was taking care of whole night. Even I didn't felt any new mental direction or any strong real life thoughts, it was still interesting to experience this on a physical side. But what fascinated me was sense of those people for nature. You could feel it at every corner. For example the shaman had hard time to see top from a bottle dropped in front of him many times during the ceremony, but when he first time entered tent in the night, he spotted ant meter away right away without any light. The Jorge was same, when walking down the jungle in the night, he entered some area and just shout "spider" and turned light on spider climbing up the tree 2m away. His wife was on the other hand specialist with a fire. I saw her sitting behind the pans and didn't saw her hands, but she kind of touched the fire to put more fire on, like you would turn the button on the oven. Very impressing. They truly were born in jungle.



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